A Storied Past, Reimagined

To stay at Chennai’s Taj Connemara is to be seduced into its present story and history, dating back to 1854. Today, its glossy, expansive reception space is a reminder of the hotel’s blended restoration where modernity meets sepia-tinged sentimentality.

Named after Lord Connemara, the former Governor of Madras, the 2018 transformation of  South India’s oldest hotel comes from the celebrated architect, Geoffrey Bawa. Located on the Coromandel Coast off the Bay of Bengal, Chennai (formerly Madras), is the capital of Tamil Nadu. Celebrated as a Creative City by UNESCO, Chennai is enjoying its place in the sun for culinary flair, architecture, culture and musical heritage.

Spirited Spaces

Hotel check-in was efficient, as we sipped welcome drinks. Very welcome actually,  after our British Airways flight from Heathrow was diverted to nearby Hyderabad because of unshifting fog over Chennai airport. BA returned us to Chennai after a short delay. In the hotel lobby, silken sarees shimmer: another air crew that’s just been processed, or the immaculately turned out receptionists resolving guest issues from desks set into spotlit alcoves.

Our suite (headline pic), featuring a four-poster bed, marks the high-point across the Connemara’s Tower and Heritage wings. The suite is airy and spacious enough to host drink parties with our group during the stay.  Elegantly restrained, with high ceilings, vintage prints andlight linen, the suite opens onto an outdoor private verandah, perfect for sipping and chatting. There are also some five acres of landscaped greenery and enclosed atrium gardens to enjoy.

Tasteful Madras

Wining and dining occurs in several themed fine dining restaurants.

Raintree restaurant brings in garden breezes to cool the palate after Tamil Nadu fiery Chettinad chicken takes hold. For calmer vibes try the subtly spiced rasam and jasmine rice in this outdoor setting..

Over at The Verandah, service is more cosmopolitan: Mediterranean tarts, fresh seafood, and South Indian breakfasts with steel tumbler coffee.Anglo-Indian dishes vie with  regional Madras specialties in a relaxed ambience at the elegant all-day Verandah.

Staff  retained this elegance in both uniform and attitude. But their warm manner and willing ways, were stymied by one small obstacle: communication. Thus, it occasionally took a couple of attempts to order specific types of breakfast items, with variable results.

Eggs Benedict, ordered in English, would sometimes materialise as fried eggs, or even scrambled. Discarding English for our pidgin North Indian Punjabi yielded little better results in this South Indian stronghold.  Still, it became a game to play the Breakfast Lottery around our massed table. Besides, indigenous Indians are so gracious and helpful, who are  faux British Indians to complain?

Night Fever with Lady Connemara

Our nightly favourite was The Lady Connemara Bar & Lounge(pictured), a haunt of local sophisticates, and global nomads.. This unassuming lounge became our 5-star party space - once we persuaded the DJ to ramp up the music from her tame background piano-tinkle.

The glow of  the sumptuous Lady Connemara Bar, a mini dancefloor, and 20 jetlagged Brits conspired to turn this benign luxury lounge into a frenzied nightclub. When other guests joined the foray we knew we were on safe ground. It’s a testament to the Connemarastaff  that they stayed bemused (but unfazed) by the party shenanigans. The bar staff good-naturedly kept the Royal Salutes and cocktails flowing while we danced up a storm. Cheers, Chennai!

The February afternoon sun invites the pool area,and Janice Pariat short-story backgrounds. The  chaotic traffic noise on the nearby main Binny Road gives way to a silent solitude here, shaded by the leafy fronds.

Jiva Spa relaxation

After a day discovering art, busy markets or stately temples, Jiva Spa reseis the pace with traditional Ayurvedic treatments.

Try out:

- A filter coffee trail in Mylapore.

- A Marina Beach dawn, watch sunrise with fishermen.

- The Dakshinachitra heritage museum of South Indian architecture and art.

- A Heritage Wing room with a garden view for the full colonial fantasy.

Getting there

British Airways LHR T5 Direct flights

Taj Connemara is a 45-minute drive from Chennai International Airport. Private transfers can be arranged by the hotel.

Best Time: November to February. The month of February enjoyable holiday sun, not oppressive heat.

Book at: www.tajhotels.com/connemara